Finally the Video of “Antonator, der Voll-Strecker” which I could climb on 12th of march this year. Have fun watching it!
Today Lorenz and me visited the Zillertal again.
Our first goal was Clockwork orange. I did the sections again for our film and Lorenz could sent it after falling at the end many times.
Meanwhile he was trying to send Clockwork I did Bad Chemnist (font 7c+). Before I went there I was a bit wary whether I enjoy the small crimps – which are the crux – or not. But after the flash try which was close I knew that it was possible for me. I did it within a few tries. Furthermore I tried Weberknecht (font 7c+/8a). It is a one or two move problem that feels possible but wasn’t sendable today.
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Then Lorenz did Clockwork and we stopped at the Saustein to exhaust us before driving home. Lorenz tried Milewsky crack again with a bit more success than last time. And I could climb Dr. Best (font 7c+/8a) surprisingly due to good conditions. The sit went well too but I fell off at the end for two times.
As tuesday and wednesday were holidays for Lorenz and me we made our decision to go to Zillertal again. First of all we tried two problems in the Zemmschlucht but we were unsuccessful there. We didn’t loose a lot of power and went to Saustein to try the Super Tera-O-Mega Project again. It is a problem by James Pearson which has good holds with big distances.
Luckily we were strong that day. Lorenz did it first – this is his first 8A+ – and I could finish it as well. Furthermore I did the Milewsky Crack (font 7C+). Lorenz tried it too but didn’t enjoy one of the holds – maybe as a lot of power was lost after sending STOMP.
The second day we woke up early due to heavy rain. Fortunately it didn’t rain long so our project stayed dry. We made it there quickly after awaking and drinking some “burn” to get some energy 
The prob is called “Clockwork orange” (font 7C+/8A) which is definitely a 5* boulder. The moves seemed pretty easy but as we found out it is not simple to climb. I could still do it but had a lot of luck during the ascent. Lorenz fell off very close, too.
All the three problems will be included in our first little movie. It will be about 20 to 30 minutes and release in about 1 or 2 months.
Stay tuned!!!
The past two days I spent in Zillertal together with Lukas Bolesch and Lorenz Ulmer.
My goal was to send “Spirit” (font 8a+) in the Sundergrund. I tried this one a few times before but could not send it. The problem for me was that I needed to use a solution that was possible but very unsafe. That means I couldn’t control the moves very well. Therefore I changed my solution this time a little bit. I could climb it then after a few goes with this beta.
Meanwhile my friends spent their time at the Magic Place where Luki did “Burn to shine” (font 7c+), “The Riddler” (font 8a+/b), “Drischiebl” (font 8a+) and “Volles Röhr” (font 8a) in just a few hours. SICK MAN!!! And Lorenz did “Unterholz 8″ (font 8a).
All in all this was a Magic Day at Magic Place for Luki and a nice day for Lorenz and me, too. The second day we were all exhausted and decided to drive home earlier.
Today Lorenz and I spent yet another day in the Zillertal. We planed to try the Super-Terra-O-Mega-Project again. But this one felt very hard and not climbable today. Therefore we switched to anther problem at the Saustein. This one is an extension to “Electra” (font 7C). We could climb it in a few tries although the sun warmed up the slopy crimps
Afterwards we changed the spot. We went to the Wehr to try “Pit Bull” (font 8A). I already spent one or two hours there last sunday but could not finish the one move crux then. But today the move felt better and I could grab the upper hold a lot better than the last time. I had bad luck the first time I stiked it cause I fell off the easier part as the holds where not cleaned. 5 minutes later I did the next go and could finish it. This boulder is definitely commendable when you visit the Zillertal.
Today I was able to climb the “Antonator” (font 8B) at the Atlantiswall after about 15 days of work. Most of the time I spent there in autumn and lately. It was very surprising that I could sent the problem that day cause the first moves which are the easiest felt very hard and the first two goes where bad too! But once the hardest move in the middle of the boulder worked from the ground and I could finish it with a big fight and a bit of luck.
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© Bruno Axhausen
The video of the ascent will be published soon.
So far – stay tuned:
A few weeks ago Lorenz, Leo and me decided to work together as a video group so that we can make bouldering videos with a lof of diversity. We planed our first film to be published in April – but as it seems it will not work since then. But we will finish it this summer for sure – Promise! Till the release you can watch some of our short cuts which are made of older video stuff:
Hopefully you enjoy our filming. If you want to post our stuff on facebook and other platforms we will enjoy.
Stay tuned!!
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Weil ich noch zwei Matten in Kochel an der Atlantiswand liegen hatte war ich heute – dem Vorlesungsfreien (‘dies academicus’) Tag – nochmal dort. Auf Antonator hatte ich net so wirklich lust. Es wär auch net so ideal von den Bedingungen gewesen. Alternativ hab ich dann den Sitzstart zum Aldi Power gemacht, welchen ich eh schon öfter probiert hab.
Im Anschluss war ich dann noch kurz an der Tickwall. Hab dort Froschleiche probiert. Bin aber immer am letzten, weiten Zug gefallen. Und weils am Samstag schon wieder ins Zillertal geht hab ich mir dann lieber Haut und Power aufgehoben
Wieder mal war ich mit paar addicted guys aus München unterwegs. This time im Zillertal – Zillergrund und Magic Place
Leo und ich hatten ne gute Session am Pressure Drop. Mega cooler Boulder. Halt schön kräftige boulderei. Für mich hats auch für nen Ascent gereicht, allerdings erst nach vielen Versuchen bei denen entweder ein Fuß ‘weggepoppt’ oder die Power auf halber Strecke liegen geblieben ist.
Lorenz und Kai waren währenddessen wo anders beschäftigt. Lorenz am Magic Place wo er ‘Volles Röhr’ gesendet hat und Kai in ner andren Ecke vom Zillergrund. Er hat dort ‘Fire with Fire’ gemacht. Später hat Lorenz noch ‘Briscilla’ geflashed und ‘Hole run’ (die Kurzversion von Pressure Drop) im second go gemacht.
Im Anschluss ham wir dann noch ‘Schönheitsregen’ (Leo und Lorenz), ‘Max 7′ (Leo, Lorenz und Kai) und ‘Blood Sports’ (allesamt) gemacht.
-> It was a nice day, with nice people, nice weather and nice problems
Super Conditions, d.h. für Lorenz und mich ab ins Allgäu. Ganz klar um Monsterball – welches wir letztes mal schon probiert haben – zu knipsen.
Trotz knipsbereitschaft liefs beim Lorenzo erstmal net so rund, was die mittleren Züge angeht, die er vergangenes mal locker machen konnte. Auch ich bin mehrmals hinten rausgefallen und hab erst nachdem ich mir nen dicken Fladen gezogen hatte doch noch nen guten und entscheidenden Versuch gemacht.
Später liefs dann auch fürn Lorenz wieder flüssiger und er hat noch einen “beinahe” ascent hingelegt. Aber schon am Dienstag könnte des Ding auch bei ihm fallen.
Ich hab mich dann noch an der (K)illerkante probiert. Aber wegen starkem Kraftschwund konnte ich sie nicht auch noch machen. Falls ich nochmal ins Allgäu fahren sollte steht des Ding aber sicher an erster Stelle.
